On Saturday 10th January
2015, Thomas Pink, the leading Jermyn St shirt maker, unveiled its
London inspired Autumn/Winter 15 Collection at the Institute of
Contemporary Arts, as part of London Collections: Men. Included in this season’s model line-up was former Scottish international rugby union player and Strictly Come Dancing contestant, Thom Evans.
Watch my video of the night below……
Presented against the backdrop of a
30ft ‘long bar’ constructed entirely out of paper, each model bartender
and punter showcased a different ‘Pink’ look. Built using crisp white
315gsm Kendal Manilla paper manufactured by James Cropper, the unique
setup provided the perfect blank canvas for the brand’s expanding ready
to wear offering. Blurring the
boundaries between tradition and technology – paper and digital – guests
were invited to leave ‘off the cuff’ written reviews on the paper bar
using pink pens, which could then be shared via social media.
Florence Torrens, Creative Director at Thomas Pink, says; “Shirts
will always be at the heart of what we do, but they inspire other
pieces to complete the look. At Thomas Pink we’re broadening our offer
to include more tailoring, outerwear and knitwear. To highlight this we
worked with James Cropper – the oldest traditional paper mill in the UK –
and Flow Creation – a group of highly skilled paper architects – to
build an installation echoing the blank canvas of a white shirt.
Inspired by the architecture of the ICA building itself, we re-created
elements of the room in paper to embellish the bar.”
Frederik Willems, Head of Design at Thomas Pink, says; “Autumn/Winter
15 is inspired by a heady mix of London’s well known landmarks, motifs
and characters. From Sir Michael Caine in the 1971 film ‘Get Carter’, to
The Coach and Horses pub in Soho, we’ve drawn upon urban influences to
create a collection which is daringly bold and eclectic in style. We’ve
played with weaves and texture to develop solid colours with subtle
design features and added intrigue. Checks and herringbone play a
pivotal role throughout.”
Guests enjoyed cocktails mixed by
Pontoon, made using Hennessy Fine de Cognac and garnished with paper
foxes, whilst listening to British classics from The Clash, The Rolling
Stones and Pulp. Continuing the iconic London theme, models wore Dr.
Martens tasselled loafers.
Thomas Pink’s London presentation
precedes its debut at Pitti Uomo in Florence and Premium International
Fashion Trade Show in Berlin, in January 2015. The brand’s presence
marks its move into key European territories and can be cited as a
significant milestone in Thomas Pink’s development as a wholesale
Autumn/Winter 15 collection notes:
Autumn/Winter 15 takes influence from
Sir Michael Caine – one of London’s sharpest dressers in the 1960’s. The
monochromic palette in shades of blue and grey celebrates his pared
back style, whilst typically ‘Pink’ punctuations of mustard and
raspberry can be found throughout. Key stories in the shirting range
include ‘The Davenport’, a self puppytooth and the ‘The Gibson’, a fine
satin twill. This season’s hero piece is the Italian weave ‘Caldicot’ in
indigo – a washed Chambray shirt in 80s two fold cotton which stylishly
blurs the boundaries between formal and casual.
As the season progresses the collection
references the urban metropolis that is London and celebrates its
social landmarks and motifs – for example The Coach and Horses in Soho,
which was frequented by Lucian Freud and legendary columnist Jeffrey Bernard.
The colour palette switches up a notch with raspberry deepening to red,
mustard to amber and hues of green emerging, whilst rich melange
textures begin to play a key role in the range. Shirting in fine Italian
fabrics include the ‘Edward’, a window pane check inspired by London’s
iconic telephone boxes, ‘The Bedford’, a complex herringbone weave and
the ‘Finlay’, a soft collar brushed poplin with amber overcheck.
Luxurious knitwear designed to be
layered comprises the ‘Askew’ – a cashmere wool blend crew neck
featuring an oversized tartan – and a selection of cable knits, v-necks
and zip necks in luxurious cashmere, wool and merino wool blends in warm
colours. Separately, Autumn Winter 15 includes a cashmere rugby jersey
to mark 2015s rugby event of the year – as well as a range of
accessories inspired by the great British sport.
This season’s outerwear is travel
focused and uses technical fabrics for maximum style and performance.
The range includes an Italian made reversible jacket, a bonded wool rain
coat and a deconstructed wool hopsack jacket. Autumn/Winter 15 also
sees the introduction of a wool/mohair travel suit made from British
fabric, which mixes high twist wool yarn with lightweight mohair fibre
to create the perfect travel companion.
Traditional British outerwear includes
stalwart sports jackets fashioned out of Fox flannel with foggy yellow
overchecks, traditional Covert coats with contrasting collars in jewel
tones and quilted jackets in collaboration with Lavenham.
As well as eveningwear, the collection
incorporates a capsule party range inspired by Alfred Hitchcock’s
dashing and directional sartorial style. A quirky colour palette of
teal, magenta, indigo and purple compliment rich velvet accessories with
silk printed peacock feathers, which sit alongside richly textured
Donegal tweed and British Flannel blazers.
In shirting, spots and exaggerated
Prince of Wales checks in bold saturated colours start to appear, whilst
a super modern dark tartan shirt with bright highlights in an
innovative ‘breathable’ fabric provides a point to the season.